I started out the weekend with every intention of starting and finishing a dog blanket.
I had bought some “I Love this Yarn” in “Pumpkin” color, decided on a pattern and went to work.
Since the blanket was for my dogs, I didn’t want it to be too big, so I decided on a 2 panel blanket, joined by a joining panel.
I cast on from 43L to 44R. I put 7 needles in work on the end, then left one out of work, 5 in work, 1 out of work, 5 in work…..to the right side, I left 1 out of work and then 7 in work. (there are 7 in work on both ends and banks of 5 in work/ 1 out of work in between).
This setup will make a panel about 2′ wide in “mock rib”.
There are 7 needles in work on both sides because I wanted to do an eyelet edge. To do this, on every other row (when your carriage is at the right) you take your 2 prong tool and move the next to the end needle in towards the center. It results in an edge that looks like this:
The eyelets will be used later when joining together with the center panel.
Unfortunately, I only knitted 200 rows and my blanket is too short. I should have knitted another 100 rows at least.
While on the subject, I don’t know what I ever did without these weight hangers. I love them.
Here is the pattern. I recommend knitting at least 300-400 rows instead of 200 like I did.
Mock Ribbed Dog Blankies
Machine: Silver Reed LK-150 or any mid-gauge machine
Yarn: Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn – 2 Skeins
Mast tension: 5 Stitch Dial 8
Make 2 Panels
Carriage on right
E-Wrap cast-on 87 stitches (from 43L to 44R). 7 in work, 1 out of work, then 5 in work, 1 out of work, across, ending with 7 in work on right. (This makes 2 extra stitches on each side of the bed for the subsequent steps which create an eyelet near the edge)
Knit across to the left.
Hold end stitches and carefully knit to the right. Hang weights on end stitches. 2 rows
Now, on this and every other Row, on both sides of the panel, take the 2 prong tool and move the 2nd from the end stitch toward the middle (creating an empty needle adjacent to the end needle. Leave the empty needle in work and knit across and back. (This creates an eyelet on next to the edge stitch, which will be used later for joining the panels)
After a few rows, hang cast on comb and weights.
Knit to 350 to 400 rows depending on desired length)
Cast Off and remove from machine.
Repeat to create 2nd panel.
Cast on 14 stitches like this: 7 in work, 1 out of work, 5 in work, 1 out of work, 7 in work.
With purl side facing you, Hang edge (eyelet) stitch from each side panel on the end most needle on both sides (so left panel is on the left most needle and right panel is on the right most needle).
It can get confusing to do the above step. Put the purl side toward you and extend the panel from the center out to the left edge. This shows you which end to hang the edge stitches from. Do the same from the other side but extend it to the right.
Knit to the left. Hang weights under the end stitches.
Now on each row, on the side opposite the carriage, hang the eyelet from the left or right panel (depending on which side you are working) on to the end needle in work on that same side.
Also move the 2nd needle of the panel stitches from the end you are working over to the right using the 2 prong tool. (This creates an eyelet stitch on the joining panel). Imagine the panel stitches
X0XXXXX|XXXXX|XXXXX0X (where X’s are knit stitches, the 0’s are eyelets you created, and the | is a stitch out of work)
Continue joining the panel and creating the eyelets on the opposite side of the carriage on each row until you have both panels fully joined.
On the last row, do not create the eyelet in the joining panel. Just knit across.
Weave in yarns.
If desired, put a row or 2 of crochet around the edges. This will help with the edges curling.