Machine Knit Roll Top Bed Socks for Men

A couple of weeks ago, my husband told me that his wool socks I had knit him a few years ago had developed a hole.  He requested that I make him a new pair since he wears them every night.

Well, it turned out it was MUCH more than a hole.  It was beyond repair.


Since I had hand-knit the “broken” socks, and it took me like 2 months to do it, I decided this time to machine knit them.  It’s such a shame to spend so much time hand knitting something that nobody is going to see, and it’s going to get worn until it looks like it was run through a blender.

While I am on that soapbox, I know that some people think that machine knitting is cheating.   I do know how to hand knit.  So it’s not like I couldn’t do it either way.  I could sew a quilt by hand too, but I choose to use my sewing machine because it goes MUCH faster.   Same as it takes a different set of skills to hand quilt vs machine quilt, likewise machine and hand knitting are two very different skill-sets.   The machines do not automatically knit anything.  You have to learn how to operate it and you manually pass the yarn carriage over the needles, manipulating the pattern manually with a series of hand tools.  There are many mishaps that can occur along the way, and you have to watch closely so you can resolve them as they occur.   You have to learn the techniques for doing things like cables, lace, ribbing, and so forth.   There really is a lot to it, and it’s not something that you learn overnight.

That said, if I were knitting socks that someone might actually see someday, I would hand knit them.   My knitting machine only knits flat, so that results in a seam.  If you look closely at the following pictures, you can see it.  But for bed socks, who cares?  It took me a whole 2 hours to knit a pair of socks.  (and another 1/2 hour to sew them up) – What is not to love about that?

Worsted Acrylic Bed Socks (Mens Size 10)

Silver Reed LK-150 (Mid-Gauge)
Mast Tension 9, Stitch Dial tension 8
With waste yarn, cast on 22L to 22 R
Knit a few rows
Change to toe color yarn.
Pull all needles left of 0 to hold
Make short row toe, until 7 needles remain in the middle
Reverse Short row until all needles are back in work (right of 0)
Sock Foot:
Knit 2 more rows in toe color
Change to sock color
Knit 32 more rows
Change to heel color
Repeat instructions for toe
Knit 3 rows in heel color  (I like to do this because it puts a colored line across the bridge of the foot, which looks sporty, but also helps match up the side as you sew up the seams).
Change to sock color
Knit 31 more rows (for the loose roll top sock)
(alternately, you could do drop latch ribbing for the last 10 rows or so)
Cast off
Sew up the side seam and use kitchener stitch on toe.
For the second sock, make the toe and heel on the opposite side (so you would pull all needles RIGHT of 0 to hold)
This ensures that your seams will be on the insides of both feet)
Sport weight bed socks
Same instructions as for worsted weight sock but
Cast on 25L to 25R
Mast tension 5, Stitch Dial tension 5
Short row the toe and heel until 8 stitches are in the middle
For the foot, knit 38 rows.
For the ankle, knit 33 rows